From Devonport to Kaikohe

Devonport

On our last day in Auckland, we took a day ferry to Devonport, a little town across the harbour which is quite lovely. Although nothing like it, we thought of West Van for its proximity to the main city. Wandered about, climbed Mount Victoria (a steep but small hill really) and finished the day sitting in a sidewalk café, eating fab (ed note: 1/2 was El Salvador - Garlic & soy marinated chicken, crispy bacon, caramelized onions with sweet chili and Guacamole sauce and 1/2 was Marinara Seafood Marinara, peppadew, olives, oregano and parmesan) pizza and quaffing wine! No one presses you to move on in NZ, it seems. 4 different waitresses took some part in our meal presentation but no one seemed too worried that we sat and sipped at length.

Back to our hotel where we had perfect seats to view the spectacular fireworks that were the finale to the Lantern Festival. Spectacular end to a lovely day!

The Northlands

Left Auckland and headed north, destination Taheke, Wildspur Lodge. On the way, stopped at a small town with many letters (ed note: Wharengi), had great falafel in pita. Took the scenic route part way and stopped at Lang’s Beach to put our toes into the sand for the first time. Lovely! Next, Kapiti Glow Worm Caves. Sounds very tourist-trappy, doesn’t it, but it was really educational and fun. Had some good laughs with the Maori owner who told us about a Vancouverite who had trespassed the night before and gone into the caves in the dark and without a guide. Not cool. Felt embarrassed to be connected in any way to the fellow. Learned lots about glow worms, which have evolved to a remarkable degree. They glow to attract newly hatched larvae that think the light is their way out of the cave. When they fly up, they find themselves attached to a glow worm’s “fishing line” made of sticky substance, like spiders’ webs. The lucky glow worm eats (ed. note: larvae dies). The cave ceilings were aglow with hundreds of the little worms. Of course, we also saw stalagmites and stalactites and heard local lore about the cave. Very fun and interesting.

From there, drove directly to the Wildspur Lodge. It’s in the middle of nowhere, really, but only 40 minutes to somewhere so it is okay. It is a bit tired, down in the heels, but has an interesting pedigree (ed. note: as well as a complete set of Encyclopedia Britannica with P.E. Trudeau as PM.). It was build in 1973 by a parliamentarian, Sir James Donald, who was also a vegetable importer and philanthropist. When his first wife could not conceive, he took on financial aid for 57 orphans. Why 57? Who knows. His first wife died, he remarried one of the oldest wards he had supported (a Woody Allen precursor?). She was adamant that she would not live in the HUGE house that he had and so Sir James built was is now called Wildspur. He plan was to provide for his wife but also to build a place that his various wards could come and stay for short periods. There are about 8 bedrooms, each around 400 sq ft., each with ensuite plumbing—not too usual in 1973. He installed a large, heated pool out the back, which has since been downsized. The house was built on the crest of a hill in the midst of 1200 acres. The property is now only 50 acres but the setting and views are amazing. Sadly, Sir James only came out to the property once, then died, leaving his reclusive wife to herself in a giant home. She did not follow his dream to have his wards holiday at the place. Instead she closed off 90% of the house and lived in a few rooms. She bought a number of industrial sewing machines and spent the next 25 years buying old clothes, repairing them, and sending them off to the needy in the third world.

So here we are. Had to get Geoff to take care of two rather large spiders who had made their webs above the shower in our room (ed note: they were old “webs” – no spiders). I detest showering with one eye on the ceiling pest! Those of you who are familiar with my bouts with spiders will appreciate the necessity of dealing with these creatures in a timely manner. The grounds of Wildspur are (ed. note: tentatively) leaning towards neglect and there are some other things that could use an update but overall, it’s an interesting place. Our host and hostess are absolutely lovely people who have been happy to help us find our way around and share their stories with us.

Played golf for the first time in NZ in Waitangi. Challenging course, loads of hills, soft rough and hard fairways, but we had fun. Spectacular views of The Bay of Islands (ed. note: see photos)! And of course, more amazing vegetation!

Geoff (ed. note: there is more to this, but Geoff will let it go) left the keys at the B&B but he managed to find the owners as they attended a funeral in the closest town! He walked in to the reception, found them and found out that the front door had been left open for us. So after a refreshing shower, we jumped back into the car and drove to the west side of the north island. Stunningly beautiful!

We took all kinds of pictures, walked above the beach and marveled at the views.(ed note: see photos) Wonderful! Had dinner at an interesting place with a stellar location on the water—more great views. A fellow tourist who had been making eye contact with Geoff (?!) finally wandered in and struck up a conversation. He was Dutch, thanked Geoff for his father’s service in the war and decried the loss of youth. All this while I was trying to enjoy my calamari! All in all, a lovely day! (ed. note: we are now enjoying more wine).